Amazing Chartres: Les temps des cathédrales
An American friend and fellow student took me once on a discovery tour of Chartres, a cathedral place in North-Central France, accessible from the Parisian Gare Montparnasse within one hour. I’m still grateful to her for taking me to a place where you can plunge into the layers of time and into civilisations that had shaped France from the Ancient Gaul till the Modern Times.
The most amazing fact about the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres is that it unites contradictions at one and the same space. Ancient pagan sanctuary with traces of labyrinthine maps to worship the solar cycle similar to Stonehenge transformed into one of the gems of Christian cathedral culture, it is the incarnation of the Sacred, par excellence, whatever the form. Located in the Loire Valley, Chartres Cathedral has been a Christian religious and architectural icon since the eleventh century. This Gothic cathedral has survived wars, revolutions and even fire. Towering church spires, stained multi-coloured glass and the labyrinth will be offered to visitors’ admiration.
The linguistic difference between mazes and labyrinths can be discussed. Most people consider them to be synonyms, but unlike mazes, labyrinths have a single path, no dead ends, and one way in and out. In many world’s religions it symbolizes the journey of the spiritual seeker, the path one must walk in order to grow towards clarity and wisdom.
The Chartres Labyrinth measures 131 feet in diameter and its concentric circles to the center were used by monks and pilgrims for meditation. An amazing collection of stained glass offers depictions of the Bible scenes. The North Rose Window, West Rose Window, Blue Virgin Window and the Tree of Jesse are some of the most recognized stained glass windows in the world. Climb to the top of the tower stretching over 350 feet in height to admire its breathtaking panoramic view on wheat fields of l’Eure-et-Loir. You can also explore the Crypt. This eleventh century crypt is the largest in France offering an escape from the summer heat. By the way, guided tours of the Crypt are offered only in French.
During the Wars of Religion, it was attacked unsuccessfully by the Protestants in 1568. Chartres Cathedral marks the high point of French Gothic art. Its porches are adorned with fine sculptures from the middle of the 12th century making it truly a masterpiece.
The construction of the Cathedral started in 1205 following the destruction of the old cathedral of Chartres. Construction took 66 years. It is considered one of the finest examples in all France of the Gothic style of architecture. Even before the early Gothic cathedral was built, Chartres was a place of Christian pilgrimage continuing the ancient spiritual tradition. For millennia Chartres was the main pilgrimage site in France with its ancient Pre-Christian roots, Druidic Black Madonna, relic of the Veil of the Virgin drawing pilgrims from all over Europe.
On the 24th of June the Catholic St John’s Day coincides with the ancient pagan Summer Solstice. Summer Solstice celebrations still present, for example, in the Baltics and Scandinavia as well as in France itself with its Fête de la musique inspired by carnival culture, is a special date in the Chartres Cathedral calendar. The maze located on the cathedral pavement floor represents a complex solar cycle scheme. Every year on the Summer Solstice, a beam of sunlight is focused through a lens in a stained-glass window dedicated to Saint Appollonaire, the Christianized version of the Roman Sun God Apollo. It illuminates a particular flagstone of the cathedral like in Saint Sulpice in Paris.
Don’t forget that Chartres is famous not only for its fascinating medieval sites. A small town with magical atmosphere like Cambridge and Salisbury in England remains at the same time a modern tourist place with a well developed infrastructure, fashionable shops and cosy cafés where you will enjoy every minute of it.
For more information on the Our Lady of Chartres Cathedral and labyrinths a number of websites are available:
https://www.squidoo.com/labyrinths
https://www.lessons4living.com/chartres_labyrinth.htm
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/81
https://www.ehow.com/how_4516800_enjoy-chartres-cathedral.html
https://interfaithmarianpilgrimages.com/pages/Chartres.htm
https://www.chartreslabyrinthtours.com/
https://www.stlyrics.com/lyrics/notredamedeparis/tempsdescathedrales.htm
Cactus offers French courses at a variety of levels in nearby Paris, Rouen and Tours. For further information or to book please visit the Cactus Language website.